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Thursday
Aug172017

The First Time I Rode The Ocean  Waves

Waves crashing could be heard from a distance as we carried our surfboards across the sandy beach of El Medano. We stopped midway along the beach where the white foam of waves could be seen forming from the horizon. My heart was thumping with both excitement and fear as this would mark the day I first learned to surf. Eros, our instructor, firmly planted his surfboard in the natural grey sand and began to simulate the techniques for surfing. My mind began to record his movements, even the most intrinsic ones, not wanting to fall flat on my face as we surf.

The moment of truth came as we were asked to paddle our boards against the waves deep into the blue ocean. With a sign post as a reference point, we headed a few hundred metres to a point where waves began to build up momentum. My turn soon came and I immediately hopped on to my board and waited for Eros' timing. As he shouted out “Paddle, paddle, paddle”, I frantically stood up knowing a wave was forming right behind me. Unable to find my balance the first time, I fall straight into the water while my board surfed on straight to the shore. Planting my foot straight in the sand, I pulled my board towards me and began paddling towards Eros and waiting for my turn.

After several times falling straight off my board, I recalled carefully what Eros had demonstrated and played the footage on repeat. "Paddle, paddle, paddle!” he shouted and there I began to mimic his movements as closely as possible. Next thing I knew, I was smiling ear to ear as the waves beneath carried me straight to shore. With the momentum fading, I stepped down of my board feeling victorious, knowing I can tell of the time I first rode the ocean waves.

By Jason Tjahyadi - Tenerife Volunteer

Frontier runs conservationdevelopmentteaching and adventure travel projects in over 70 countries worldwide - so join us and explore the world!

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